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Post  cenabite138 on Tue May 21, 2013 12:03 am

I believe my mr roboto is having a center pin issue. Tanks that are new or work with other batterys do not work with it. I tried cleaning the connection also. I am apprehensive about tryin to pull it up with a screwdriver for fear of breaking it & even if I do pull it up, wont it go right down once I screw a clearmizer on it? I mean if it went down once, wont it just go down again esp if your pulling it up. I temporarily fixed the issue by using a small 510 to 510 connection extender but the problem with that is I have that big gap sticking out even with a thread cover adapter.

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Post  VapeMasterSupreme on Tue May 21, 2013 1:43 am

Might be an o-ring issue, you can bring It by the shop tomorrow and Bryan can look at it got you. Hope it helps.
-josh
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Post  cenabite138 on Tue May 21, 2013 2:08 am

i would but im in jersey

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Post  wbart on Wed Jun 05, 2013 11:57 pm

try a dental pick to see if you can fiddle with it a bit
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Post  Dcavey on Wed Jun 26, 2013 7:40 pm

I just had mine do the same thing. I have the kanger pro tank. I wanted to try the vivi nova. Worked fine, but when i put my kanger back on, it won't work now. Looks to me that the vivi sticks out further and pushed the batt connection down. i just want my kanger to work... Sad

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Post  RCO67 on Wed Aug 14, 2013 3:26 am

When "pulling" the center pin be very gentle. It usually only needs to be lifted ever so slightly. When doing so, a dental pick is a perfect tool. Work around the center pin much like you would when tightening lug nuts on a car. Two issues can occur from doing this repeatedly causing your battery to fail over time.

The first issue is pulling up too far. There are two rubber insulators/o-rings/grommets (pick your terminology) that isolate the positive pin from the negative ( the "body of the connector"). Pulling too far will dislodge the insulator from the underside of the center pin resulting in shorts. You cannot get it back on unless the 510/ego threaded connector is remove from the battery casing tube, cutting the positive lead wire, instaling insulator, resolder wire, reassemble, etc. It really is less a headache to purchase a new battery and chalk it up to experience.

The second issue is that the positive lead wire runs from a printed circuit board inside the ecig to the center pin. The wire is soldered to the pin and is somewhat fragile. Not glass like fragile but fragile enough that enough wiggling from repeatedly pulling it up will eventually cause that solder joint to fail, again making your battery useless.

While the 510 thread seems to have evolved into a de facto industry standard in the ecig industry over the years, unfortunately the length of the connectors still varies a bit. I'd suggest since you know that there is a difference in the connector length of Protanks and the Kangers, to dedicate a battery for use with the Protank or use a 510/ego adapter to minimize the chance of pushing in your center pin.

Finally, while this may be common knowledge I'll mention it for anyone that may not be aware - it is not necessary or advisable to crank down your juice delivery device on to the battery. Only tighten it until contact is made with the battery.

Hope this helps someone.


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